Black Valley to Killarney

Our last day hiking! It was suppose to be 13 miles, but…there was a boat ride, that would cut off about 7 miles, and it was a lovely ride!

The bridge to Lord Brandon’s
Lord Brandon supposedly kept his wife in this tower in the 1800’s
Our Captain Dux, with a thick Irish brogue
A chilly and wet ride
Through a 300 year old bridge
Another lovely bridge
Ross Castle
Finished! And a long rest before heading home Monday!

Black Valley

Today we walked to Black Valley. It was one of the most beautiful walks I’ve been on. It was all narrow road walking. Surrounded by mountains, and waterfalls everywhere.

Unfortunately photos don’t do the area justice. But the beauty is astounding and our B&B is in the middle of it all. Tomorrow is our last day walking. The time has flown, so we will enjoy the last few days, and fly home Monday.

The Kerry Way

I’m a few days behind on the blog. So I’m just going to combine the last few days. Hiking like this, and being a little older, by the time we’re done for the day, we’re exhausted! It’s been absolutely beautiful, and an experience of a lifetime. I must admit though, at times I’ve overestimated my abilities. So, instead of saying I hiked The Kerry Way, it will be, I hiked SOME of the Kerry Way. With over 70 miles on our feet, I’m not feeling any shame.

Waterville to Cahersiveen

This was an over 12 mile day with over 1,000 foot climbs, and they were steep climbs. The wind and rains were wicked and we crossed bare mountain ridges. At times the wind was so strong, the rain stung our faces. It was one of those “whose idea was this days” The scenery was gorgeous though.

Perhaps a leprechaun’s house?
Taking the trail with us
Ridge after ridge walked
Lots of rainbows helped with attitude!

Cahersiveen to Glenbeigh

We shortened this day and hiked about 7 miles, instead of the 13. Mark can hike forever, unfortunately for him, I have my limitations. It was a lovely day with some sun and a walk by Dingle Bay.

A fun fairy village at the end of our hike
A River running through Glenbeigh
Our accommodations for the night!

Glenbeigh to Glencare

We walked the whole route to Glencare and it was a great hike with some altitude climbing.

Our path was roads, grass walkways and stone walkways

Only a couple of more walking days left!

Caherdaniel to Waterville

This morning we woke up to rain. Completely expected, and we are prepared for walking in rain. Waterproofed top to bottom. All ready to head out, and then the gale force wind started. We are walking for pleasure, scenery and experiencing another culture. Looking out at where we were to walk, and having the clouds completely blocking any views we may have, we decided to hunker in, and ride it out. Things finally calmed down at 3ish. Too late, so we explored the small village and dined on the sea. We also walked 5 miles to do laundry, so we did get some walking in. It was disappointing, but its not worth getting blown away.

There are actually mountains behind this tree. Another reason not to walk today, we would have probably only seen right in front of us.
Klondike House B&B breakfast. I’m not big on sharing food pictures, but this was amazing.
Outdoor laundry., not the best in pouring rain.
Waterville is a small village on the Atlantic. There are only around 400 full time residents. But it has healthy tourism.
A nice walk along the sea
Charlie Chaplin hung out in Waterville a lot, they are very proud of that.
A brighter afternoon.

Tomorrow we walk from Waterville to Cahersiveen. Maybe a little rain, but they aren’t expecting the winds we had today. We are ready to get back on the walk. Should be about a 15 mile day.

Sneem to Caherdaniel

Today’s hike was beyond gorgeous. We walked along mountains, and after each pass the views of valleys just opened up. Some of the hike was boggy and we walked on one lane roads, grass paths, rock paths, and among the farm animals.

Through out the day the clouds covered the higher peaks. I’ve always been intimidated by long uphills, but they seem to be getting easier? We are about 36 miles into about 120 miles.

Mark checking out another decaying building
I think we crossed 30 stiles today. My dismount seems to be a little sketchy, but I’ve not fallen yet.
Sometimes our path is like a tunnel
Lots of stone fences
An old cemetery on our walk with Celtic head stones
This guy was sitting in the middle of nowhere, just to bring a smile.
I’m not sure what these are, but they are everywhere

Tomorrow we walk from Caherdaniel to Waterville. They are predicting rain. But we’re ready, waterproofed head to toe.

Kenmare to Sneem

A much easier day today. Only 10 miles! And relatively flat. We hiked along the Kenmare Bay.

Kenmare Bay
Two track road walking
The plants are on steroids here. With the damp climate and temperate weather, they thrive.
Single family home
Lots of stone fences. Some are overgrown, but still standing
Interrupted these guys.
Giving it over to the bats
Lots of old stone buildings crumbling.
We crossed many stiles, moving from one pasture to the next.
A great way to end the day!
Mark opted for dessert
Downtown Sneem, beautiful village

Yesterday was warm and sunny. Almost too warm for strenuous hiking. Today, it was cloudy all day, and a little drizzle. Warm enough for a T-shirt though. The humidity is around 97%. I guess you just feel a little damp your whole life. Now for some rest and relaxation.

Killarney to Kenmare

Yesterday was a hard day for our first day hiking. The blame can be placed directly on me. The company we are going through has an app with all the daily routes and GPS, easy right. Well, my mistakes led to over 16 miles as opposed to the 12 we were to hike. It was mountainous and lots of steep ups and downs. We were exhausted last night, But the scenery was breathtaking.

Hiking through Killarney National Park. Torc waterfalls.
A few waterfalls to brighten out walk
There is water everywhere. It runs in little streams along the side of our trails and sometimes on our trails
The trail has been paths, double tracks and wooden pathways

I keep forgetting to take a picture of our accommodations. I’ll do better. They have all been B&B’s and wonderful. Sadly we were too tired to explore Kenmare yesterday. Next, Kenmare to Sneem.


Traveling couldn’t have gone smoother. A direct flight from Chicago to Dublin, and the plane was only a quarter full. Then a bus to the city center. We arrived at our hotel at 7:00am and they let us in our room!! Great to use it as we explored Dublin, especially for occasional naps.

Flower baskets everywhere in Dublin
Wandered through the castle’s state rooms
King George VI throne

Yours truly with Molly Malone “in Dublin’s fair city

Prerequisite fish and chips from Leo Burdock’s
The prices are per liter, so that’s about $6.00 a gallon
Catching a train to Killarney. It was about a 3 hour trip. All public transport requires you to mask.
Our hotel in Killarney, The Abbey Lodge
Killarney has a vibrant, bustling downtown shopping ares.
A “jaunty” to Muckross House. I considered starting hiking this way, but it didn’t seem right to start the walk with a horse and buggy..

We met with the company Ireland Walk Hike Bike, and have our GPS set. Tomorrow we hike to Kenmare. It is a little over 12 miles. The weather has been lovely. Upper 60’s and sunny, but I’m sure we will be using our waterproof gear at some point. Anxious to get started!!!


We fly out a week from today, and there have been no cancellations. As a matter of fact, Ireland is well above 80% vaccinated and they are going to lift restrictions in October. We are testing for covid Saturday, and have our vaccine cards ready to go.

We are prepared for rain and it looks like that was a good idea. Rainproofed from top to bottom. Irelands rainy season is in the spring. But it’s Ireland, so rain is really expected anytime. At least it isn’t cold for hiking.

We should be walking about 120 miles total over about 9 days. Along the coastline for much of it.

I did find these leather waterproof boots, made in Oregon, and they feel already broken in. I’ve put a few miles on them and they should be fine. Now that is feels like its is really going to happen, I’m getting excited.


November 2019, making plans for 2020, what kind of trip should we take? We really enjoyed walking the camino, perhaps a walking vacation, hiking? Googling for a couple of days, this wonderful site


appeared. The company offers so many options, and after pouring over the offerings, we decided to walk The Kerry Way. Alone, with just our GPS and stopping overnight at B&B’s. All the plans were set, for June 2020. Then, covid hit….. The airline and the hiking company, gave us vouchers that expired on… October 1, 2021. So here were are, prepared to go or not go, and leaving in two weeks. Concerned? of course. For so many reasons, but we’re laying low and are vaccinated, and just waiting to see what happens next.